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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Legends and old myths...

Punk was born in a climate of nonconformity in England during the mid Seventies. Young people disagreed with the political and cultural establishment; they rejected the cynicism and hypocrisy they felt The Establishment was based on, so they made up a new way to protest by creating new music and new aesthetics that were deliberately provocative. They expressed their frustration by trying to offend people by eschewing traditional values, morality and in general, good taste. Punk fashion achieved this with zippers and chains all over the clothes, vintage garments, DIY clothing; everything jarring and traditionally ugly was valid in their visual code. British designer Vivienne Westwood was the maximum exponent of these aesthetics. Together with Malcolm McLaren, she opened the first Punk boutique in London under the name of Sex. She was a symbol and well, now...


"Inspired by Mantegna the collection begins with dresses in grey fine wool/cashmere, an interpretation of his trompe l'oeil device of painting figures and scenes in the colour of statues, thereby establishing the comparison of his work to that of ancient Greece and showing off the unmatched elegance of his draped loincloths," Westwood said in her notes. * source: www.vogue.co.uk



I can't help but wonder, how the great Montegna could inspired such a disappointing collection and what the h**l was Pamela Anderson doing there? I instantly remembered seeing Ines de la Fressange at Jean Paul Gaultier and thought "what a difference".




El punk naci� bajo un clima de disconformidad en Inglaterra durante la d�cada de los setenta.
La gente joven se mostraba en desacuerdo con la clase dirigente, rechazaban el cinismo y la hipocres�a en que cre�an que estaba basada �sta clase, e inventaron una nueva forma de protesta creando un nuevo tipo de m�sica y una nueva est�tica que eran deliberadamente provocativas. Expresaban su frustraci�n intentando ofender a la gente evitando los valores tradicionales, la moralidad, y en general, el buen gusto. El punk consigui� esto con cremalleras y cadenas sobre la ropa, con prendas vintage, con ropas de fabricaci�n propia... Todo lo que desentonase y fuese tradicionalmente feo era bienvenido en su c�digo visual. La dise�adora brit�nica Vivienne Westwood era el m�ximo exponente de esta est�tica. Junto con Malcolm McLaren abri� la primera boutique punk de Londres, bajo el nombre de Sex. Ella era un s�mbolo, y bueno, ahora...

"
Inspirada por Mantegna, la colecci�n comienza con vestidos in gris de lana fina/cachemir, una interpretaci�n de sus trampantojos, al pintar figuras y escenas en el color de las estatuas, estableciendo una comparaci�n entre el trabajo de Montegna y el de la antigua Grecia y se�alando la elegancia desigual de las t�nicas que les cubr�an" -dijo Westwood en sus notas.

No puedo evitar preguntarme qu� hizo el pobre Montegna para inspirar esta colecci�n tan sumamente decepcionante, y lo que es peor, �qu� demonios hacia Pamela Anderson ah�? Autom�ticamente me vino a la cabeza Ines de la Fressange en Jean Paul Gaultier, y pens�, qu� gran diferencia.

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