Beatnik Trend S/S '08 + '09

A lot of my brain time recently has been occupied with updating my portfolio, so I have been researching heavily into many different trends so I can decide which way to direct my work for the future seasons. A new trend seems to be sweeping across our shores this summer, and is certainly going to be around on a more mainstream level next spring/summer. I have aptly named this commercial trend 'Beatnik', though you could call it 'Hillbilly Luxe' or 'Nu Boho' etc etc.

It is a modern take on the Boho trend a few years back, with a grungy edge and hints of military tailoring. Inspired by global travel this trend includes bright embellishments - inspired by such wide sources as historic Hungarian textiles and the grand bazaar in Istanbul - mixed with Ralph Lauren style equestrian jodhpurs and jackets.

Etro and McQueen embracing this trend

From the book World Textiles, I have scanned in these beautiful images which I find both fascinating and inspiring. This may be ignorant of me, but reading into their processes and techniques (some of which date back 100's of years) it makes you appreciate the hard work and talent required. These days everything is woven in a factory and can be bought 'off-the-peg'. I am no print designer, however this is making me want to do yet another personal project for my portfolio.

A woman's Jumlo, from Kohistan, Pakistan

A Shepard's woolen coat, from the mountainous Chitral valley of North Pakistan

Don't worry though, it isn't all going to be brightly embroidered kaftan's, white cotton brocades and various other 'relaxed' fabrics will feature too. From what I have seen on my musings around London, and things I've picked up from the catwalks etc. I have compiled a list of key pieces for this trend:

Relaxed jodhpurs in lighter fabrics - a simliar shape, tight around the bum, waist and leg with button detailing to the ankle (I know it's been bubbling under for a while now, but it's due to burst onto the streets!)

Rolled up hem, wide-leg tailored trousers

Cropped military jacket, or a 'shacket' (cross between a shirt and a jacket)

Over-washed and crumpled blazers, jackets etc

Embellished/embroidered/frogging jackets

Maxi dress in chiffons and cottons

Layered waistcoats/cardigans

Printed cotton jumpsuits

Relaxed camisoles and t-shirts

*EDIT* A friend kindly informed me that when I wrote 'Relaxed jodhpurs in lighter fabrics', what I actually meant was hareem pants. Now who feels like the fool?