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Friday, February 20, 2009

Julian Roberts: Subtractive Pattern Cutting

I spend most days looking at pretty dresses, browsing shows on the Internet, checking out new designers and generally absorbing anything vaguely fashion related that I can. This being the case, occasionally I get bogged down with it all, and no matter how beautiful or revolutionary a garment is, they start to blend into one. You know when you're driving the same route home everyday and you sink into autopilot? It's kind of like that, but with fashion. The past couple of nights however, I have stayed up way past my bedtime to read about, watch videos of and experiment in complete awe of my new found inspiration - Julian Roberts.

If you don't know much about pattern cutting and the technical side of fashion, you may not fully understand his work (although he lectures to many disciplines, be it interior design, fashion, product design etc.) but it will still inspire you. You have to watch some of his videos and hear him speak about his craft...it has breathed some kind of new life into me, just when I was starting to feel like I was stuck in a creative rut (I generally get like this around fashion weeks - most other fashionistas are jetting off to some amazing shows, and I am stuck behind my desk as per).

With Julian's work it is all about the concept. His garments are beautiful and quite revolutionary (read Comme des Garcon), I feel there is something missing from them, almost lacking in design. As I said, it is all about the concept. His method of pattern cutting is called 'Subtractive Pattern Cutting', which basically means cutting fabric away from a LONG tube until you have taken enough away to create a dress. I shall not even begin to try and explain his methods, but I strongly advise you visit his website for yourselves.


Imagine some of these techniques on a sleeve, or a beautiful skirt, the back of a jacket? The possibilities are endless. His website features a FREE online school, with pages of explanations which you can print out and keep forever. This is only for a limited period though, as it is soon to be pay-per-view.

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